Being tourists

February 5, 2022

Wednesday, we wandered around Otavalo, finding high places to look at the town. Even our own hostel has a terrace up on the roof. I managed to take a panoramic view of about 25% of the skyline from Cotacachi to Imbabura.
Thursday we did a real touristy thing, we took an organized culture tour around some local artisan workshops/villages. The distinction is a bit nebulous because often location dictates what a village will specialize in.
For example, the village on the shore of Lago (lake) San Pablo specializes in woven mats and baskets made from a rush or reed that grows in the shallows (we were told many names in both Spanish and Quechua, and I remember none of them).
We even got to try some things, weaving mats and narrow bands in the traditional way, and watched someone put together the bamboo pipes that are very popular in indigenous music here. Cutting and tuning the pipes is done by ear. We were also taken to some spots important in the indigenous culture, including the Cotacachi crater lake which besides being remarkably deep, only rain fed, and potable, is also incredibly beautiful.

Yesterday, we wandered around Cotacachi which is a much quieter town than Otavalo, (and full of expat American retirees!), mostly because Serge had found an Indian restaurant he wanted to try. We lazed around a park facing the Franciscan church, and were inadvertent witnesses to a funeral. Don't know who died but there was a lot of indigenous attendees. The priest sang the whole Mass in the deepest voice I've ever heard. It echoed across the park! Afterwards, there was no hearse, not even a pickup truck or horse drawn cart, which I expected. Pallbearers carried the coffin several blocks to the cemetery, up and down hills in the process. I don't know if they switched out bearers in the process, but it was a remarkable show of respect.

Speaking of horses, well, you've heard of street dogs and street people? Well how about street horses? Really. There was a trio of horses wandering around, exactly like a bunch of teenagers half looking for trouble!
The only people that reacted were the tourists (with cameras), except for one local who chased them out of the park as a public service. Horse droppings in the street is one thing, but in the park is another thing completely! The horses seemed used to it, and trotted off to their next hangout!

And as for the Indian restaurant, it was excellent, and easily one of the best meals I've had anywhere.

That's it for now. Today is market day, so we are off to do some serious shopping!



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